Cooking Class with Chef Ivan Flowers – Lesson 55 Fondue

In the last class I taught you how to make incredible deviled eggs. This week I want to teach you one of my favorite dishes from the past that has recently had a resurgence; fondue. My memories of the seventies include bell bottoms, platform shoes (yes, I wore them!), lots of hair (yes, I had some!) and all the fondue parties. What fun we had dipping chunks of bread and fruit into that luscious melted cheese. Every neighbor I knew had a fondue set and they used it regularly, then, for some reason, it all stopped and all those fondue sets ended up in the garbage or being sold at garage sales. Happily, we have rediscovered this dish and now I will give you all the tips you need to make fabulous fondue. I mean, really, what’s not to like about pots of melted cheese?

Before I get into the recipe, I want to talk a little about fondue. Fondue is of Swiss, Italian & French origin. Although we know it mainly as melted cheese served from a communal pot, called a caqueline, the term now also applies to chocolate fondue and hot oil/hot broth fondue. The latter is served with raw meat that is then cooked in said hot oil or broth. The classic cheese fondue that most of us grew up eating was made with Swiss & Gruyere (a pungent & nutty flavored Swiss cheese), a dry white wine and was topped with Kirsch, a clear cherry flavored brandy. Now, people make fondue from all types of cheeses, wines and with or without any added brandy. The following recipe will give you a fail proof technique so you can make and serve decadently smooth fondue.

Let’s get cooking!

This recipe will make one large pot of fondue. You will need: large sauce pan, large metal spoon, ½ pound shredded Swiss cheese, ½ pound shredded Gruyere cheese (you can substitute Emmantaler or Jarlsberg), two tablespoons corn starch, ½ teaspoon dry mustard, one peeled garlic clove, one cup dry white wine (I like Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Gris), one tablespoon lemon juice, large bowl, a crock pot (or fondue pot), one sourdough baguette cut into cubes, one Granny Smith apple sliced and metal skewers.

The first thing to do is rub the peeled garlic clove all over the inside of your saucepan. This will give a slight garlic flavor to the fondue without being overpowering. Once you rub the inside of the pan, discard the garlic clove. Now toss all the grated cheese with the corn starch. This is a crucial step and will be the difference between smooth fondue and clumpy or stringy fondue. The corn starch acts as a stabilizer and keeps the fat in the cheese from separating with the protein. Once the cheese is coated, set it aside.

Next, add in the wine and lemon juice. The wine will not only flavor the fondue, but it is also how we create that cheese sauce. It helps to thin out the melted cheese. The lemon juice adds a nice hint of acid against all the richness of the cheese. You may have noticed that I did not list salt and pepper in the ingredient list. This is because cheese has a very high salt content on its own and does not need any additional added. If you want to add a sprinkle of pepper at the end of making this dish, please feel free. I suggest white pepper so the cheese is not flecked with black. Put the sauce pan over medium heat. Once the wine starts to simmer, add in the grated cheese about a ¼ pound at a time. You will want to be stirring constantly throughout this entire process. Once cheese melts add in another ¼ cup. Continue until all of the cheese is incorporated and melted. Once all the cheese is in and it is smoothly melted, stir in the dry mustard. This will add another level of flavor to the cheese.

Once you have made the fondue, you need to keep it at 120 degrees the entire time you serve it. This will keep it melted, but not burnt. If you have a fondue pot with a warmer, transfer to that, if not, a crockpot set to low works great. Now place your cut up bread and apples around the pot with the skewers and dip into that glorious cheese.

Now that you have the technique, feel free to mix it up. Do cheddar fondue and use beer instead of wine. Serve soft pretzels to dip in it. Or how about using jack and fontina with a Mexican beer and some Sriracha? This will make an over the top cheese sauce that can be dipped into or even poured over chips for nachos.

Remember, as with any technique or recipe, the most important component is the cook’s heart. The heart is what helps you create delicious meals you’ll never forget.