Cooking Class with Chef Ivan Flowers – Lesson 53 Stuffed Shells

The last class covered how to make homemade bread, so I started thinking about how I wanted to make some garlic bread out of the loaf I had just made. That lead me to think about what I liked to eat with garlic bread and the first dish that popped into my mind was stuffed shells. I am absolutely crazy about this dish! My Mom used to make it for me and I would eat so many shells that I would make myself sick. Then that night I would get out of bed, stumble to the kitchen and devour at least five more shells. There is something about the mouth feel of the al dente pasta against the creaminess of the cheese with the acidity of the marinara sauce that makes the taste buds sing and cry for more. Another thing I like about this dish is that you can make it ahead of time and it actually tastes BETTER if it sits in the fridge a day or two.

Now, let’s get cooking!

This recipe will make between six to eight servings (or four if you live in my house). You will need: 12 ounce box of jumbo shells + six more, two beaten eggs, 32 ounces whole milk ricotta, large stock pot, colander, one pound shredded mozzarella, ten ounces grated Parmesan cheese, one teaspoon chopped fresh oregano, two teaspoons chopped fresh basil, one teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, three cloves finely minced garlic, three tablespoons olive oil, salt, pepper, 28 ounces homemade (lesson 5) or jarred marinara sauce, aluminum foil, spray oil, large spoon, small spoon, wooden spoon, nine by eleven casserole dish, large bowl, small bowl, small strainer, sauté pan and cheesecloth.

The first thing you are going to do will happen the day before you make the stuffed shells. You are going to strain the ricotta. I really think that this makes a huge difference in the dish. By removing the extra liquid from the cheese you create a denser creamier texture. Also, by eliminating that liquid you safeguard yourself from having watery stuffed shells. So to strain the ricotta, put a small strainer onto a small bowl. You want the bowl big enough and deep enough that the ricotta won’t be sitting in the extracted liquid. Next, line the strainer with cheesecloth. This will help you remove the cheese after it has drained. Now put the entire container of cheese in the cheesecloth lined strainer and place it uncovered in your fridge. Let it sit overnight. When you are ready to use it, simply lift it out of the strainer using the cheesecloth and place in a large bowl. Discard the extracted liquid. Trust me, once you use this technique, you will want to use it anytime you are working with ricotta.

Okay, so now your ricotta is drained. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Next you are going to want to cook your shells. In a large stock pot bring your water to a boil then generously add salt. Remember this is the one chance you have to season the pasta. Also, for this recipe, add in two tablespoons of olive oil. I like to do this with stuffed shells because I want to make sure they don’t stick together while cooking or cooling. Once it is boiling, add in the entire twelve ounce box of shells and at least six more. Why do you do this? Because as you are cooking and stuffing the shells, inevitable some will break, so you want those back up shells. Cook until al dente and then drain. Let them sit and cool before you use them. A good rinse with cold water will expedite the cooling process. While the shells cool, take a sauté pan, add one tablespoon of olive oil and put over medium-low heat. Add in the minced garlic and sauté until it is tender. Set it aside.

In the bowl with the ricotta add in your two beaten eggs, four ounces of the Parmesan, eight ounces of the mozzarella, all your chopped herbs and the sautéed garlic. Using a large spoon, mix this until everything is combined and it is a creamy texture. Then salt and pepper your ricotta mixture to taste. Set this aside and spray your casserole dish with oil. Some people don’t do this, but I like to because not only does it make sure that your pasta doesn’t stick, it also makes a difference when cleaning the casserole dish.

Next, spoon a thin layer of marinara sauce into the dish and spread it out so it evenly covers the bottom. This will make sure the bottoms of your shells are sauced just like the top of them.

Once your shells are cool you will be able to fill them with your ricotta mixture. Hold the shell in one hand and using a small spoon, fill it 2/3 full with the ricotta. If you fill it more than 2/3 full it increases the chances of the shell breaking. Also, the filling will bubble out of the shells while cooking, which defeats the purpose of making stuffed shells! As you fill the shells, line them in your casserole dish.

Once you have filled all the shells, evenly pour the remainder of the marinara sauce over the shells. The marinara sauce should be at room temperature. If it is hot, it will melt the cheese out of the shells and if it is cold from the fridge, it will bump up your cooking time.

Finally, top the shells with the remainder of the mozzarella and the Parmesan.

You can cook it immediately or cover and put in your fridge and cook it in a day or two. Cook it in a 350 degree oven covered with aluminum foil for 35 minutes. Then uncover and cook for ten to fifteen minutes more until the cheese is melted and the dish is bubbling. Let it cool for ten minutes before serving.

That’s it!

Once you have mastered this dish, play with it. Add lemon zest to the ricotta along with chopped fresh thyme and some Boursin cheese. I will be eating mine cold, layered on top of that garlic bread, standing in front of the fridge and remembering my Mom. Remember, as with any technique or recipe, the most important component is the cook’s heart. The heart is what helps you create delicious meals you’ll never forget.